Flappers: How Climbers Care for Torn Skin Between Sessions
If you climb regularly, you don’t need a definition of a flapper — you’ve felt one. That sudden zip as a callus catches, the raw patch underneath, and the immediate calculation in your head: Can I still climb this week?
Flappers are one of those universal climbing experiences. Not dramatic. Not rare. Just frustrating. And while they’re part of the sport, how you care for your skin between sessions makes a huge difference to how quickly you feel ready to pull on again.
This isn’t medical advice — it’s climber-to-climber skin care. Practical, repeatable, and built around real training weeks.
What a Flapper Really Is (In Climbing Terms)
A flapper is usually a callus tear rather than a fresh cut. Skin that’s thickened over time catches on a hold, edge, or volume and pulls away, leaving a sensitive patch underneath.
Most climbers don’t stop because of pain — they stop because the skin underneath is dry, exposed, and vulnerable, especially on crimps, pinches, or slopers.
The goal between sessions isn’t to rush anything. It’s to:
- Keep exposed skin comfortable
- Reduce excessive dryness
- Support the surrounding skin so it doesn’t tear again
- Arrive at your next session with skin that feels usable, not fragile
Common Causes (From Real Climbing, Not Textbooks)
Flappers rarely come from one thing. It’s usually a mix of:
Uneven Calluses - High spots and ridges catch more easily than smooth skin. If you’ve got thick edges around your fingertips, they’re prime flapper territory.
Dry Indoor Air - Indoor walls + chalk + heating systems strip moisture fast, especially in winter.
High-Volume Weeks - Skin adapts slower than strength. If you’ve increased sessions, intensity, or outdoor mileage, your hands may lag behind.
New Holds or Rock Types - Fresh indoor sets, sharper resin, or switching from plastic to real rock can expose weak spots quickly.
None of this means you’re doing anything wrong — it just means your skin needs consistent care, not panic fixes.
First Things First: What to Do Right After a Flapper
Once you’ve finished climbing:
- Clean the area gently (lukewarm water, mild soap)
- Trim loose skin carefully if needed — don’t rip it further
- Let it dry fully before applying anything
At this stage, the aim is comfort and protection, not “fixing” anything overnight.
Daily Care Between Sessions (This Is the Part Most Climbers Skip)
Most flappers get worse because skin care is inconsistent, not because climbers don’t know what to do.
Light, Regular Balm Use is the answer - Many climbers use a small amount of balm once or twice daily, focusing on:
- The exposed area
- Surrounding calluses
- Fingertips and thumb pads
Think conditioning, not coating. A thin layer, rubbed in fully, is more useful than slathering it on once every few days.
Why Light Application Matters
- Heavy, greasy layers can leave skin feeling soft on the surface but brittle underneath. Repeated light application helps skin feel supple, not soggy.
- This is why daily balms tend to work best as part of a routine rather than a rescue product.
Rest-Day Skin Care (Where Progress Actually Happens)
Rest days are where your skin catches up - On non-climbing days:
- Wash hands normally
- Apply a light balm once during the day
- Apply a slightly thicker layer in the evening
You don’t need to overdo it — just enough to keep skin from drying out completely. If you’re resting multiple days in a row, consistency matters more than quantity.
Overnight Care: Simple, Not Extreme
Overnight is useful because your hands aren’t on holds, chalk, or water.
Here is a a simple approach to take:
- Apply balm before bed
- Focus on fingertips and any torn areas
- Let it absorb — avoid occlusive layers that leave skin waterlogged
Some climbers like cotton gloves, some don’t. If your skin feels overly soft in the morning, dial it back. You’re aiming for comfortable skin, not baby-soft hands.
Preventing the Next Flapper (Without Obsessing)
You can’t eliminate flappers entirely, but you can reduce how often they show up.
Keep Calluses Even - A quick file once or twice a week is usually enough. Smooth skin catches less.
Match Skin Care to Training Load - Hard weeks = more frequent light application
Easy weeks = maintenance only
Skin adapts best when care matches demand.
If you want a broader look at everyday hand care — including callus maintenance, skin conditioning, and building a simple routine — our Climbing Hands 101 guide goes into more detail
Where a Daily Balm Fits In (Naturally)
Most regular climbers eventually land on a daily balm as part of their routine — not because it’s magic, but because it’s practical.
A good daily balm should:
- Absorb well
- Support dry, stressed skin
- Be easy to use between sessions
- Feel comfortable, not greasy
That’s exactly how ClimbCare started — by a climber who wanted something simple that fit real training weeks, not something that lived unused at the bottom of a bag.
If you’re already using a balm daily and it works for you, stick with it. If not, it’s worth finding one that suits your skin and climbing style.
👉 You can explore ClimbCare’s Tallow Hand Balm Here: No pressure — just an option many climbers include alongside filing, rest days, and sensible training.
Final Thoughts From Me
Flappers aren’t a failure. They’re feedback. They usually mean your skin needs more consistency, not more products. Light, regular care between sessions goes further than last-minute fixes before you tie in.
Look after your skin the same way you look after your fingers, shoulders, or elbows — calmly, routinely, and with respect for the long game.
Your future hands will thank you.
FAQs
What causes flappers when climbing?
Flappers usually happen when a callus catches on a hold and pulls away. Uneven calluses, dry skin, sharp holds, and increased training volume all make this more likely.
How do climbers care for flappers between sessions?
Most climbers focus on gentle cleaning, trimming loose skin if needed, and regular light skin conditioning. Consistent daily care tends to work better than one-off fixes.
Should I stop climbing if I get a flapper?
Not always. Many climbers adjust intensity, tape if needed, or prioritise rest days until the skin feels comfortable again, rather than stopping completely.
How often should I apply hand balm to torn skin?
Small amounts applied once or twice daily is common. Light, repeated application usually supports dry, stressed skin better than heavy layers applied infrequently.
Can daily hand care help prevent future flappers?
Yes. Keeping calluses smooth and skin conditioned as part of a regular routine can reduce how often flappers occur, especially during high-volume weeks.